Boat Trip - North Tarawa

Tebontekeke - waves through the channel are on the outer reef

 A week ago a group of us hired a boat to visit islands of North Tarawa. It was a windy day, but that relieved the heat. Tebontekeke is the furthest you can drive on North Tarawa and is the channel between the lagoon and the outer reef which we cross to start our Sunday afternoon walks (subject of another post later).  

Classrooms

The school was built of traditional materials, which ensures it can be maintained, but the buildings are not suitable for keeping books, computers and other equipment. The Kiribati Education Plan is working with communities to develop a structure which is affordable, able to be maintained with local skills and materials and  works for all. In some communities, kit buildings, similar to those we trialled in PNG are being built.

Classroom - inside

Children learn in Kiribati (an aural language) for the first 3 years of school, then transition to English. It is a contentious policy for parents, teachers and educators but the research shows that if children develop literacy in their native tongue, they will do better with the second language. This policy requires skilled teachers, resources and commitment by the Ministry. Much work is being done on developing reading material in Kiribati. 

Village Elder (left) and Amon the Boat owner.

We could not walk in the Village without being welcomed by the "one who can tell the story". He took us to the sacred area near a very special tree with vine growing on it from which he made us all a twisted string to wear as evidence that we had been welcomed and were friends. (our passport!) He told is of wars (finished early 20th C) which were based on land grabs. Warriors wore heavy plaited armour similar to European Knights. Their weapons were also similar, made of whale and fish bone. Land continues to be a critical issue with population growth and climate change. 

The Kiribati Islands are blessed with ground water. In this village, well water was a metre down and bought to the surface with a tin on a string. Each Village has at least one well. My house has well water pumped into it and the quality is excellent. The sea is the rubbish dump for all waste and the beaches and lagoon are testament to that. Until this changes, this beautiful region will not be a tourist destination.   

The Mwaneaba is the village meeting place. The one pictured is traditional with roughly carved stone plinths and thatched roof. Often they are very large and the thatching is a massive job, so newer ones have iron roofs. The men discuss village business and women sit around the edges and listen. In Tarawa, most have power and they are also used for washing areas, sleeping, cards and bingo.

Touring party

The area has a large tidal movement. Locals have dug a channel to the deep water but still we had about 500m walk. Amon's wife cooked us fish sandwiches in the hold of the boat. They also had fresh water for rinsing off after our last swim. You can see the pink toilet on the back of the boat.

Another channel to the 'outside'.

   

There are many places where the water is crystal clear. It is very warm and so not as refreshing as you would think. The outer reef water is cooler, but still comparatively warm. There is never a need to hesitate on entry!  

A few cushions would have been nice for the trip home!