Mauri: Living in Kiribati

Kia kia

Kiribati is remote. There are 2.5 flights a week - 2 each week via Fiji and fortnightly via Nauru. The remoteness impacts everything - food, social life, communication, outlook on the world, resources and living generally.

Most people sleep in kia-kia's, cook in the open, and socialise in mwaneaba's. They get water from a well, and wash and toilet in the sea. There is little privacy. They eat fish and other seafood which they catch daily or have it dried or smoked.

Mwaneaba built recently at Temaiku

40% of the population live in Tarawa, many still live traditionally, although there are more solid houses (cement block) which the middle class have built and I-matung (white people) live in.

I live on a property with 2 cabins by the ocean. I have an air-conditioned bedroom, lounge with fan, kitchen, bathroom/toilet, and sleep-out/veranda. From my lounge I have a fabulous view of the reef and ocean. There is the constant noise of the sea which I love. Included in the rent is cleaning, washing, internet and the since I have been here, I have a new stove, fridge and lounge which have made the place very comfortable. I have well water for showers and rain water which I boil or filter for consumption. The shower is cold and that is the the main cause of jealousy! "Do you have hot water?" Yes/no. "Do you?"


My Cabin on the right.

It is very hard not to live by the sea, but some do manage it. Why, I don't know! You have the option of Lagoon side, which is always beautiful to look at, but not to swim in; and ocean side in which you can swim, despite the litter of babies nappies, plastic bags and other sundry items. Often the water is just too hot to swim in.

View from my lounge

My accommodation is at Temaiku, a 10 minute drive from work in Bikenibeu. Bikenibeu has I - Mart which stocks a lot of what Australians want/need. For most other grocery shopping you need to drive to Betio at the other end of Tarawa which is about a three hour round trip including shopping. Also at Bikenibeu is Toboraoi which is a travel business, DHL agency and coffee shop - Chatterbox.