Battle of Tarawa

Red Beach is in the foreground

On November 20th - 23rd 1943, the US engaged the Japanese garrison in Betio on Tarawa in a bloody battle. There were approximately 3,600 Japanese military personnel and 1500 Korean labourers holding Tarawa when a force of 35,000 Americans attacked. It was a massacre by any standards and only 1 officer and 16 enlisted men of the Japanese force surrendered. The Americans lost 1700 men - many more than they predicted. The assault was badly planned, not accounting for a 'neap'  or dodge tide in which the depth over the reef was miscalculated, leaving landing craft stuck on the reef and exposed at first light. The sight is named Red Beach reflecting the horrendous loss of life which occurred there. 

A number of guns remain along the beaches

According to Admiral Nimitz, "The capture of Tarawa knocked down the front door of the Japanese in the Central Pacific." The Americans went on to capture the Marshall Islands and other Japanese strongholds in the Pacific after this victory.          

 

Ruins of a gun placement

 The death toll did not go unnoticed in the USA. There was much disquiet at the planning and execution. Was it necessary? However it went wrong on the day, it is immortalised in American history, with an Aircraft Carrier named Tarawa and the war correspondent placing it in rarified battle company.  

"Last week some 2,000 or 3,000 United States Marines, most of them now dead or wounded, gave the nation a name to stand beside those of Concord Bridge, the Bon Homme Richard, the Alamo, Little Big Horn, and Belleau Wood. The name was Tarawa."

—Robert Sherrod, Time Magazine War Correspondent, 6 December 1943.

Still in Tarawa......

At Bonriki International Airport, this little boy went through customs and security with his gun.  The thought that some one would have a real gun is beyond comprehension.

Personalised number plates - as in make them yourself! Cars are registered for about $20 per year, but not to a person. The thought that they would be registered to a person is odd. How do you know who owns the car? Whoever has the car! Everyone knows whose car it is. I have people I don't know tell me they saw my previous car at Betio or at the Airport! They also know my new car, and wave as they pass on the road.

Boys often cover themselves in sand/mud from the lagoon and pose by the roadside.

The road is constantly in a state of dis-repair. When I first arrived 12 month ago, the holes were occasionally filled with a sand and cement mix. There is no cement now and groups of men fill the holes with sand - often patting it down with bare feet. If it rains the road is full of holes again; if it doesn't, everything is dusty. Since the last Parliament in early May, the road repair has been non-stop. There is a contractor in  town preparing for the new road, which should start soon.  

Sleeping shelters are called kia kia (kee-ah kee-ah). They are simple covered platforms big enough to sleep a family together. They are cool and if it rains, large woven louvres are lowered to protect against the wind and rain. It is not often windy and it is always warm. Inside they have woven sleeping mats which can be easily aired. A kiakia by the beach is much more comfortable for sleeping than a western style block room with small windows.

Solar Eclipse May 10th 2013

A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between the sun and the earth either partially or fully blocking the sun. In Tarawa this was quite spectacular; it occurred at midday. In the 15 minutes before the eclipse, the light faded such that it felt like you were wearing very dark sun glasses. Then thousands of shadows of the eclipse were able to be seen on the ground and under trees. It was amazing! To the left is a circle of the sun with the moon shadow in the middle.

Eclipse reflections under the trees

 

You know you are in Tarawa ... because

•          You never have to adjust the temperature of the water in the shower
•          The wine is crap and expensive but you still drink it every night
•          VB or XXXX. What’s the difference?  You will have what they have got!
•          The affocato at Toboraoi is to die for
•          Toboraoi is to die for
•          Tebon tekeke to Broken Bridge is a ‘rite of passage’ for I-Matung.
•          No two speed bumps are the same
•      Dancing by the road at speed bumps is a good money raising gig

  

  Normally girls dance - but , hey! -whatever works.

•     Punjas flour is the best in the world
•     Dogs don’t shake when they come out the water
•     Kiribati cops rock
•     Those hunky blokes in the blue uniforms with   numbers are not prisoners; they are from the fisheries college
•  The blokes in green are prisoners. (or is it the  other way round?)
•   Nobody tells you Wishing Star has meat pies
•   Everyone tells you Wishing Star had meat pies
•   The ambulance never stops
•    You can get 100 school kids on the back of a truck
•   Smiling is a national pastime
•   Fresh lobster are sold door to door for $5
•   All bananas are numbered

  

  Lot of middle men to get this banana to market

• Utirerei  does fabulous Lobster – thermidor, mornay or garlic (and bisque)
• You can walk, ride or drive on the runway when there are no planes on it. Nothing to stop you when there are planes on it.
• Post cards addressed to you c/o Tarawa, find you.
• You might be sick of tuna, but tuna is not sick of you   
• If you buy 5 kg of bacon, you know you can ‘on-sell’ it.
• RID is the perfume of choice
•  Reef sandals and socks suck,  but they work
• People talk about the outer Islands. What the f**k is Tarawa?
•  Round every corner is a Maneabwa
• Someone will have the meds you require/desire
  
• There is no “T” in Kiribati or anything else for that matter, but,
• But Tarawa is Tarawa
• Your bedroom is full of water because the sea wall broke
• Tooting is a sign of consideration, not road rage
• Just veering left or right on the road is indication enough
• This is where all the old Australian $5 notes are
• The buses are called Hula Lady, Te Mauri, or Kiddybus
•  The buses go to Tanaea or Temaiku – there is nowhere else to go
• The waitress sits with you at your table while you decide.
• The restaurant at the turn off to the Airport does Fish and rice ($3:50) and with egg ($4:50)

  

  Swampies, Saipan or T-Bar - nice food!

Two Flights a Week

On Monday and Thursday, the Air Pacific flight from Fiji arrives at Bonriki International Airport. Anyone who has ever been to Tarawa will smile at the mention  of the Airport. While it has a long runway  and a newish traffic tower,  it has no lights, no fence, it doubles as a road, is the path between two villages, a walking track and a place for 'socialising' at night.

Air Kiribati in Abemama

Kiribati Air, which services the Gilbert Islands flies daily, and relies on buzzing the airport prior to landing. A truck drives up and down the runway warning other users and generally it is everyone's understanding that you get off the runway if a plane is landing. I assume dogs and pigs are airport savvy, but I do wonder as they frequently ignore cars on the road to Betio.

Runway open to traffic

For those who live at the Airport end of Tarawa, you become aware of the routines; Air Pacific Flight is due at 8:00am and you don't go to the airport to collect passengers until you hear it; Air Kiribati leaves as soon as it is light and wends its way home at 6:30pm. If you are lucky enough to be in the air for one of these sunset landings, you have had a glimpse of heaven.

•  Is the plane coming? They sometimes don't, although recently they have been reliable.
•  What time is it coming? There are frequent changes, including the day, without notice.
•  Is it on time?

When all this has been confirmed, you need to decide whether to check in at the airport or Tobaraoi. Tobaraoi provides an excellent service of check-in and coffee, plus a ride to the airport - all in comfortable surrounds and for the bargain price of $7. For those of us who live 5 minutes drive from the airport, it is best to check in very early, (the aim being to snaffle a forward seat), then go home for a coffee, and return to the airport when you  hear the plane arrive.

Recently the airport has been undergoing an upgrade of sorts but the crowd control in the arrivals area doesn't include baggage collection or collection of duty free. Despite the difference in the cost and range of alcohol between Fiji and Tarawa, my advice is resist the urge to buy duty free; the wait to collect it, is not worth it. The redeeming feature of the baggage collection exercise is that you are confronted with happy, smiling and helpful I-Kiribati; the baggage handlers and  travellers. The 'shit-fight' is only a problem for I-matung; best get over it, and preferably before you leave Arrivals.

Car Park shopping includes Clavin Klein undies

If you are meeting someone, the recent advent of security guards in the car park has meant they direct you to a puddle of their choice, whereas before you could pick your own puddle. I am not sure if the guards have a role other than traffic control, as I leave my car unlocked everywhere.

Being at the airport, whether arriving, leaving or collecting others, is an excellent opportunity to meet new people, do business, and generally catch up. It is accepted, indeed expected that you talk to everyone and find out their business. I-Kiribati who have no connection to you, will want to talk and find out your story. Likewise I-Matung will also ask what you are doing in Kiribati. There is no such thing as being 'alone'.   

Christmas is a time when I-Matung start every conversation with "Are you going home for Christmas?" and "What flight?" Right now we have cyclone Evan bearing down on Fiji and  Monday's flight is cancelled putting pressure on Thursday's flight which I am booked on. It may mean devastation for Fiji and loss of life which is more concerning - so we are all working at keeping the possibility of not being home for Christmas in perspective; i.e. 'not that important in the circumstances.'

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 

    

Living in Kiribati

Kia kia

Kiribati is remote. There are 2.5 flights a week - 2 each week via Fiji and fortnightly via Nauru. The remoteness impacts everything - food, social life, communication, outlook on the world, resources and living generally.

Most people sleep in kia-kia's, cook in the open, and socialise in mwaneaba's. They get water from a well, and wash and toilet in the sea. There is little privacy. They eat fish and other seafood which they catch daily or have it dried or smoked.

Mwaneaba built recently at Temaiku

40% of the population live in Tarawa, many still live traditionally, although there are more solid houses (cement block) which the middle class have built and I-matung (white people) live in. 

I live on a property with 2 cabins by the ocean. I have an air-conditioned bedroom, lounge with fan, kitchen, bathroom/toilet, and sleep-out/veranda. From my lounge I have a fabulous view of the reef and ocean. There is the constant noise of the sea which I love. Included in the rent is cleaning, washing, internet and the since I have been here, I have a new stove, fridge and lounge which have made the place very comfortable. I have well water for showers and rain water which I boil or filter for consumption. The shower is cold and that is the the main cause of jealousy! "Do you have hot water?" Yes/no. "Do you?"

My Cabin on the right.

It is very hard not to live by the sea, but some do manage it. Why, I don't know! You have the option of Lagoon side, which is always beautiful to look at, but not to swim in; and ocean side in which you can swim, despite the litter of babies nappies, plastic bags and other sundry items. Often the water is just too hot to swim in.

View from my lounge

My accommodation is at Temaiku, a 10 minute drive from work in Bikenibeu. Bikenibeu has I - Mart which stocks a lot of what Australians want/need. For most other grocery shopping you need to drive to Betio at the other end of Tarawa which is about a three hour round trip including shopping. Also at Bikenibeu is Toboraoi which is a travel business, DHL agency and coffee shop - Chatterbox.

Chatterbox

A different pattern each day

Dinner at Paradise

The social life  revolves around sharing of meals for any possible occasion, or no reason at all, at one another's place or at

a restaurant.

        

Tamana

Welcome to the Minister at Tamana Aiport

Moi moi slushies for breakfast. Ice cold coconuts!

Tamana is the second most southern island in the Gilbert group and is unusual for Kiribati, in that it doesn't have a lagoon.

I visited there several weeks ago with a delegation from the government to open the refurbished Margaret Field Primary School. The flight was about 2 hours including a stop there and back to refuel.

 

The island is wholly protestant and has a very large and impressive church which is a monument to the missionaries and the difficulty of maintaining western style buildings. There are neither the materials or the skills to maintain buildings, which is why locals revert to traditional buildings.

If you have to be buried somewhere, this is the place! Ministers who lived and died here in the 1800's are buried between the Church and the sea.







  


The kids turned up for the opening on Saturday.

Many classrooms don't have desks. Students sit on the floor and work on the floor. There is normally work on the walls but they were kept clean for the opening. The floors are polished cement.

 

This computer room is most unusual in a Primary School, but is an example of where one thing leads to another. 

Your taxes at work! The Minister is in the flowery meri blouse, His Excellency, George Fraser, Australian High Commissioner is in the red shirt, and local Tamanans in the white shirts. Currently Australia (or AusAID to be more precise) insists on 'badging' Aid. I am philosophically opposed to ensuring that the giver of the gift is acknowledged with a sign. In my opinion the giving doesn't need to be labelled. It is un-Australian. Another practical reason for not badging Aid, is that in this environment, the building it is most likely to fall into disrepair - the deal being that the Government of Kiribati is responsible for maintenance. They have neither the funds or capacity to maintain a building such as this. Currents efforts to get acceptance of locally built classrooms - which they can maintain, is being rejected by some local politicians who want 'permanent buildings', which are in fact not permanent. It also lessens the investment the community makes in Education, which is critical to maintaining the partnership between government and Islands in all things, but especially education. AusAID favours traditional buildings, but this school was part of a pilot program.    

Check-in and departure lounge! All cargo - human included, must be weighed. The trip back is much heavier with fish (dried and fresh) and gifts, which on this trip were woven mats.