Battle of Tarawa

Red Beach is in the foreground

On November 20th - 23rd 1943, the US engaged the Japanese garrison in Betio on Tarawa in a bloody battle. There were approximately 3,600 Japanese military personnel and 1500 Korean labourers holding Tarawa when a force of 35,000 Americans attacked. It was a massacre by any standards and only 1 officer and 16 enlisted men of the Japanese force surrendered. The Americans lost 1700 men - many more than they predicted. The assault was badly planned, not accounting for a 'neap'  or dodge tide in which the depth over the reef was miscalculated, leaving landing craft stuck on the reef and exposed at first light. The sight is named Red Beach reflecting the horrendous loss of life which occurred there. 

A number of guns remain along the beaches

According to Admiral Nimitz, "The capture of Tarawa knocked down the front door of the Japanese in the Central Pacific." The Americans went on to capture the Marshall Islands and other Japanese strongholds in the Pacific after this victory.          

 

Ruins of a gun placement

 The death toll did not go unnoticed in the USA. There was much disquiet at the planning and execution. Was it necessary? However it went wrong on the day, it is immortalised in American history, with an Aircraft Carrier named Tarawa and the war correspondent placing it in rarified battle company.  

"Last week some 2,000 or 3,000 United States Marines, most of them now dead or wounded, gave the nation a name to stand beside those of Concord Bridge, the Bon Homme Richard, the Alamo, Little Big Horn, and Belleau Wood. The name was Tarawa."

—Robert Sherrod, Time Magazine War Correspondent, 6 December 1943.

Still in Tarawa......

At Bonriki International Airport, this little boy went through customs and security with his gun.  The thought that some one would have a real gun is beyond comprehension.

Personalised number plates - as in make them yourself! Cars are registered for about $20 per year, but not to a person. The thought that they would be registered to a person is odd. How do you know who owns the car? Whoever has the car! Everyone knows whose car it is. I have people I don't know tell me they saw my previous car at Betio or at the Airport! They also know my new car, and wave as they pass on the road.

Boys often cover themselves in sand/mud from the lagoon and pose by the roadside.

The road is constantly in a state of dis-repair. When I first arrived 12 month ago, the holes were occasionally filled with a sand and cement mix. There is no cement now and groups of men fill the holes with sand - often patting it down with bare feet. If it rains the road is full of holes again; if it doesn't, everything is dusty. Since the last Parliament in early May, the road repair has been non-stop. There is a contractor in  town preparing for the new road, which should start soon.  

Sleeping shelters are called kia kia (kee-ah kee-ah). They are simple covered platforms big enough to sleep a family together. They are cool and if it rains, large woven louvres are lowered to protect against the wind and rain. It is not often windy and it is always warm. Inside they have woven sleeping mats which can be easily aired. A kiakia by the beach is much more comfortable for sleeping than a western style block room with small windows.

Solar Eclipse May 10th 2013

A solar eclipse occurs when the moon passes between the sun and the earth either partially or fully blocking the sun. In Tarawa this was quite spectacular; it occurred at midday. In the 15 minutes before the eclipse, the light faded such that it felt like you were wearing very dark sun glasses. Then thousands of shadows of the eclipse were able to be seen on the ground and under trees. It was amazing! To the left is a circle of the sun with the moon shadow in the middle.

Eclipse reflections under the trees

 

You know you are in Tarawa ... because

•          You never have to adjust the temperature of the water in the shower
•          The wine is crap and expensive but you still drink it every night
•          VB or XXXX. What’s the difference?  You will have what they have got!
•          The affocato at Toboraoi is to die for
•          Toboraoi is to die for
•          Tebon tekeke to Broken Bridge is a ‘rite of passage’ for I-Matung.
•          No two speed bumps are the same
•      Dancing by the road at speed bumps is a good money raising gig

  

  Normally girls dance - but , hey! -whatever works.

•     Punjas flour is the best in the world
•     Dogs don’t shake when they come out the water
•     Kiribati cops rock
•     Those hunky blokes in the blue uniforms with   numbers are not prisoners; they are from the fisheries college
•  The blokes in green are prisoners. (or is it the  other way round?)
•   Nobody tells you Wishing Star has meat pies
•   Everyone tells you Wishing Star had meat pies
•   The ambulance never stops
•    You can get 100 school kids on the back of a truck
•   Smiling is a national pastime
•   Fresh lobster are sold door to door for $5
•   All bananas are numbered

  

  Lot of middle men to get this banana to market

• Utirerei  does fabulous Lobster – thermidor, mornay or garlic (and bisque)
• You can walk, ride or drive on the runway when there are no planes on it. Nothing to stop you when there are planes on it.
• Post cards addressed to you c/o Tarawa, find you.
• You might be sick of tuna, but tuna is not sick of you   
• If you buy 5 kg of bacon, you know you can ‘on-sell’ it.
• RID is the perfume of choice
•  Reef sandals and socks suck,  but they work
• People talk about the outer Islands. What the f**k is Tarawa?
•  Round every corner is a Maneabwa
• Someone will have the meds you require/desire
  
• There is no “T” in Kiribati or anything else for that matter, but,
• But Tarawa is Tarawa
• Your bedroom is full of water because the sea wall broke
• Tooting is a sign of consideration, not road rage
• Just veering left or right on the road is indication enough
• This is where all the old Australian $5 notes are
• The buses are called Hula Lady, Te Mauri, or Kiddybus
•  The buses go to Tanaea or Temaiku – there is nowhere else to go
• The waitress sits with you at your table while you decide.
• The restaurant at the turn off to the Airport does Fish and rice ($3:50) and with egg ($4:50)

  

  Swampies, Saipan or T-Bar - nice food!